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著名服装设计师皮尔·卡丹去世 你对他的生前创举了解多少?

2020-12-30 17:30  来源:中国服装网 www.ynnewsw.cn
 

在中国人的记忆中,皮尔卡丹是耳熟能详的大品牌,它的创始人皮尔·卡丹是时尚界的传奇人物,他让高档时装走进老百姓的生活,他的商业帝国遍布世界各地,他的名字注定无法被遗忘。

French fashion designer Pierre Cardin poses in front of his 1954-1956-1957 fashion creations in his museum called "Past-Present-Future" in Paris November 12, 2014. REUTERS/Charles Platiau

Legendary French fashion designer Pierre Cardin has died at the age of 98, France's Fine Arts Academy announced on Tuesday in a statement on Twitter.

法兰西艺术院周二(12月29日)在推特发布声明表示,法国传奇时装设计师皮尔·卡丹去世,终年98岁。

"The Perpetual Secretary, Laurent Petitgirard, and the members of the Academy of Fine Arts are deeply saddened to announce the death of their colleague Pierre Cardin. He had been elected on 12 February 1992 to the chair of Pierre Dux," the Fine Arts Academy said.

法兰西艺术院称:“法兰西艺术院终身秘书长洛朗·珀蒂吉拉尔和艺术院成员沉痛宣布同事皮尔·卡丹去世的消息。他于1992年2月12日荣任法兰西艺术院院士。”

His creations adorned many stars of the day, among them Elizabeth Taylor, Barbra Streisand, Jeanne Moreau, Jackie Kennedy, Charlotte Rampling, the Beatles and the Rolling Stones.

皮尔·卡丹设计的服饰曾为许多当红明星增光添彩,其中包括伊丽莎白·泰勒、芭芭拉·史翠姗、让娜·莫罗、杰奎琳·肯尼迪、夏洛特·兰普林、甲壳虫乐队和滚石乐队。

Cardin was among the first designers to capitalize on the business side of fashion, becoming a household name thanks to powerful branding.

卡丹是最早投资商业化时装的设计师之一,并借助强大的品牌力量成为家喻户晓的人物。

He also broke with tradition through his futuristic designs -- and by producing landmark unisex and ready-to-wear collections at a time when both were effectively unheard of.

他还曾打破传统,设计出未来主义风格时装,生产出标志性的中性化成衣系列,这两者在当时都是闻所未闻的。

Cardin was born in 1922 in San Biagio di Callalta, a small town in northeast Italy about 20 miles from Venice. He was born Pietro, but he became known as Pierre after his family relocated to France to escape fascism two years later.

1922年皮尔·卡丹出生于意大利东北部小镇圣比亚焦-迪卡拉尔塔,距离威尼斯约20英里(32千米)。他出生时名叫彼得罗,但两年后为逃避法西斯主义举家迁到法国后被改名为皮尔。

As a young man, his first steps into fashion coincided with a move to Paris, where he worked on the costumes of Jean Cocteau's film version of "Beauty and the Beast." In 1946, he was hired as a tailor by his subsequent mentor, Christian Dior, who had just opened his couture house in Paris.

年轻的皮尔·卡丹初入时尚界时恰逢他搬到巴黎,当时他为让·科克托拍摄的电影版《美女与野兽》设计服饰。1946年,他受雇于后来的导师克里斯汀·迪奥当裁缝,迪奥当时刚在巴黎开了自己的高级时装屋。

Four years later, at the age of 28, Cardin founded his own eponymous fashion brand, first designing theater costumes, then moving into haute couture in 1953.

四年后,28岁的卡丹以自己的名字创立了时装品牌,起先是设计戏服,然后在1953年开始进军高级时装界。

eponymous [pɑnms]: adj. 以……的名字命名的

French designer Pierre Cardin poses with models at the end of his 2009 spring/summer and autumn/winter ready-to-wear fashion collection show in Theoule-sur-Mer, southern France, October 6, 2008. REUTERS/Eric Gaillard

皮尔·卡丹的时装创新

His breakout creation was the bubble dress -- so called for the bubble-like shape of the area between the waist and the hemline -- which he designed in 1954. It proved commercially successful worldwide, setting the stage for a string of fashion innovations.

皮尔·卡丹的突破性作品是1954年设计的泡泡裙,以腰部和下摆间的区域形似泡泡而得名。事实证明,这款泡泡裙在世界范围内创下了商业佳绩,为一系列时装创新奠定了基础。

Hoping to make designer clothing more accessible, he launched his first ready-to-wear collection at the Printemps department store in Paris in 1959, a move so scandalous that it got him expelled from the Chambre Syndicale, the body governing French haute couture (he would be reinstated shortly after, before leaving of his own accord in 1966).

卡丹希望让设计师服装走进千家万户,于是1959年他在巴黎的春天百货推出了自己的第一个成衣系列。这一令人震惊的举动让卡丹被法国高级时装协会除名(不过他很快又重新被协会接受,后来他在1966年自己退出了协会)。

Displaying an early business nous, Cardin was among the first foreign designers to open shops in Japan, China and Russia. He pioneered modern branding by lending his name to a variety of products -- including perfumes, watches, cigarettes and even frying pans -- raising eyebrows in the traditional fashion world and earning serious money that he invested in real estate.

卡丹早早地展现出了他的商业头脑,成为最早在日本、中国和俄罗斯开店的外国设计师之一。他开创了现代品牌的先例,将品牌授权给香水、手表、香烟甚至煎锅等各种产品。这种做法让传统时装界侧目,也让他赚了大钱,开始投资房地产。

nous [nas]: n. 理性;精神;心灵;常识

French fashion designer Pierre Cardin, 97, poses during a presentation of a collection made in partnership with Pierre Courtial, a young designer he trained himself at his Studio Pierre Cardin in Paris, France, February 27, 2020. REUTERS/Charles Platiau

Among the designer's property purchases were a Provence castle, once owned by the Marquis de Sade, and the famous Maxim's restaurant in Paris, which he transformed into a global chain with locations in New York, Beijing and elsewhere.

卡丹购入的房产包括曾归萨德侯爵所有的波城古堡和巴黎著名的马克西姆餐厅,后来卡丹将其打造成一家全球连锁餐厅,在纽约、北京和其他地方都有分店。

In the 1960s, Cardin combined his interest for space exploration with a fascination for technical fabrics, by creating the groundbreaking space age unisex collections.

20世纪60年代,卡丹将他对太空探索的兴趣和对高科技面料的痴迷结合在一起,设计出了开创性的中性化太空服系列。

One of his standout garments, a pink dress comprised of molded 3D shapes and made from a fabric of his own creation, Cardine, was famously worn by actress Lauren Bacall in 1968.

卡丹最出色的作品之一是一件用自己独创的卡丁布面料制成的3D塑形粉裙,因1968年女演员劳伦·白考尔穿过而名噪一时。

Both of Cardin's home countries offered him recognition: In 1987, Italy named him a Grand Officer of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic, while in 1991, France made him an Officer of the Legion of Honour. The same year, UNESCO made the designer a goodwill ambassador.

卡丹的两个祖国都对他表示了认可:1987年,意大利授予他意大利共和国特等功勋称号;1991年,法国任命他为法国荣誉军团军官。同年,联合国教科文组织任命他为亲善大使。

英文来源:美国有线电视新闻网

(来源:中国日报网)



本文标题:著名服装设计师皮尔·卡丹去世 你对他的生前创举了解多少?
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(责编:李陈亮)

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